For the seller
Fungus, haze and dust: reading an old lens
Hold an old lens up to a bright window and look through it from the back: what you see is either dust, haze or fungus, and the three mean very different things. Dust is harmless. Haze is a film on the glass that softens every photograph. Fungus is alive, grows in the dark, and can etch the glass for good. Telling them apart takes one minute and no tools.
The one-minute check
Point the lens at a bright light or the sky, look through it from the rear, and tilt it. Open the aperture first if there is a ring for it, and use a phone torch shone through at an angle for a harder look.
- Dust: dark specks that sit still and look like what they are. Every old lens has some. It changes photographs not at all, and it is not worth anyone opening a lens for.
- Haze: an even, milky veil, often only visible with the torch. It can be oil mist from the aperture, outgassing, or the early stage of worse. Haze lowers contrast and gives photographs a glow; sometimes that glow is even wanted. It matters, and it needs saying when you sell.
- Fungus: threads, spider-web patterns or branching spots, usually starting at the edge of an element. This is the one with a clock on it.
What fungus actually is
Fungal spores are everywhere; they germinate when a lens sits in the dark, in humidity, with something to eat — the grease, the coating, the dust itself. That is why lenses from damp cupboards and leather cases grow it and lenses that were used do not: daylight, especially UV, keeps it down, and use keeps air moving. Early fungus can often be cleaned by a technician; long-established fungus etches the coating and sometimes the glass, and then no cleaning brings the lens back.
What it means for the lens
A little fungus at the edge often changes photographs less than people fear, and lenses with it are bought and sold every day, honestly described. What it does change is the conversation: it must be named, it spreads if storage stays bad, and on some lenses the cure costs more than the lens. Our guide to what old lenses are worth looking at for covers the rest of the picture.
What not to do
- Do not open the lens. More lenses are ruined by amateur cleaning than by the fungus itself: scratched coatings, lost shims, elements refitted the wrong way round.
- Do not wipe the inner surfaces through the mount, and do not use household cleaners on any surface.
- Do not seal it in a plastic bag, which keeps the humidity in. Store it dry, with airflow, and give it daylight; a windowsill out of direct sun does more good than a cupboard.
- Do not park it back in the leather case, which is exactly the microclimate it grew in.
If it is a whole shelf of glass
In every camera collection some lenses are clear, some hazed, one or two grow the garden. That mix is normal, and it is not a reason to clean, fix or discard anything before passing the collection on. We buy collections whole, fungus included, and judge them looking through the glass, not at the word. Say what you see, in your own words; the form below asks exactly that.
Short answers
How do I know if my lens has fungus?
Threads or branching spots, seen against a bright light through the rear of the lens. Even haze is haze; still specks are dust.
Does lens fungus spread to other lenses?
Spores are everywhere anyway; what spreads is the conditions. Keep storage dry and lit and the rest of the shelf is at no special risk.
Should I have a lens cleaned before selling it?
No. Describe it honestly and leave the decision to whoever takes it on; a cleaning attempt gone wrong is worse than any fungus.