For the seller
Leica serial numbers: what they tell you
Every Leica camera body and lens carries its own serial number. It tells you roughly when it was made and which model the number was allocated to, and it is the first thing to check if you want to know whether a Leica is what it says it is. On its own, it rarely changes what a camera is worth.
Where to find it
On most Leica film cameras the serial number is engraved on the top plate, usually beside the accessory shoe. Lenses carry their own number, normally on the ring around the front element or on the barrel. The camera and the lens were made separately and sold separately, so it is normal for their numbers to be far apart.
What the number tells you
Leitz allocated serial numbers in blocks, one block at a time, to a particular model. A number therefore tells you which model it was allocated to and roughly when. Because blocks were handed out ahead of production and models overlapped, a number is a close guide to the year rather than an exact date.
For the classic M cameras, the first numbers allocated to each model are a useful starting point:
| Model | Introduced | Numbers begin around |
|---|---|---|
| M3 | 1954 | 700 000 |
| M2 | 1957 | 926 001 |
| M1 | 1959 | 950 001 |
| M4 | 1967 | 1 175 001 |
| M5 | 1971 | 1 287 001 |
| M4-2 | 1977 | 1 480 001 |
| M4-P | 1981 | 1 543 351 |
| M6 | 1984 | 1 657 251 |
The ranges overlap, which is why an M4 can have a lower number than a late M3. A full list of every block, model by model, is kept by CameraQuest and in the Leica Pocket Book.
One number is worth knowing on its own: M3 cameras from 919 251 onward have a single-stroke film advance. Earlier ones need two strokes of the lever. Collectors sometimes prefer one or the other, and it is the quickest way to tell them apart.
Checking whether a Leica is genuine
Leica has been copied for as long as it has existed. The most common copies are Soviet cameras, often FED or Zorki bodies, dressed up with Leica engravings, wartime markings or unlikely inscriptions. A few things are worth checking:
- Does the number fall in a block for this model? A serial number that belongs to a different model is the first question to ask.
- Do the engravings look right? Genuine engravings are crisp and evenly filled. Soft, uneven or oversized lettering is a warning.
- Is the story too good? Military markings, famous owners and presentation engravings are exactly what copies are made to imitate. They need proof, not just a story.
None of this replaces a look by somebody who handles Leicas regularly, but it catches most of the obvious ones.
What the number does not tell you
A serial number does not tell you the condition, and condition is most of the value: whether the shutter runs at the right speeds, whether the rangefinder is bright and aligned, whether the lens is clear. Outside a few special cases, such as the very first or last numbers of a model or a documented special edition, a low or high number adds little on its own.
If you want to know what a particular camera is worth, our guide to whether old cameras are worth anything explains how to look at it. Several Leicas have their own page in The models, such as the Leica Minilux.
If there is more than one Leica
A Leica is often the best piece of a larger collection: a few bodies, a drawer of lenses, the finders, hoods and cases that went with them. If that is what you have, we buy it whole. Our Pass it on page explains how.
Short answers
How do I date a Leica by its serial number?
Find the number on the top plate and look up which block it falls in. The block tells you the model it was allocated to and roughly the year.
Why are my camera and lens numbers so different?
Bodies and lenses were numbered separately. Different numbers are normal and say nothing about whether they belong together.
Does a low serial number make a Leica more valuable?
Rarely. Condition and completeness matter far more, except for the first or last cameras of a model and documented special editions.